I avoided going to Marseille for many years simply because of the seedy “French Connection” image it had. On a chance trip very recently, I see that the city has witnessed a massive “clean up” using top architects and designers to build a gleaming new state-of-the-art Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations(MuCEM), renovating old docks and heritage buildings, opening new hotels and restaurants. It is the second largest city of France and now considered one of France’s most exciting gourmet capitals.
Getting there
Travel
Air France. It used to have the terrible reputation of being a stuck up airline with unfriendly, inflexible crew. All changed. Believe me, I was surprised. The serenity blue scarves are part of the new “softer” image of the airline. Lots of care is taken to welcome you, ask you if all is well and take your feedback at the end of the flight. In biz class, look out for Fauchon chocolates and Clarins toiletries. They are pushing out their show stoppers even at the airport – top brands shine high at CDG. There are simply no run of the mill, high street stores at all. They have a spanking new lounge with huge glass windows. There is plenty of space to move around and breathe and the new signature red and white designer furniture is simply stunning. It’s a new softer AF in many ways with good, discreet, friendly ‘not in your face’ service. It’s more than just an image change. AF is also much cheaper than you would expect. I met a friend at the lounge who had paid the same amount from Bangalore to the US as I had recently paid from Mumbai to London on another airline. I see fares as low as 32 K Mumbai – Paris return economy in winter. Worth going to Paris for the weekend! Food on board is predictably top notch. A good selection of French wines from the big wine regions, Bordeaux, Chablis, Châteuneuf du Pape and the Loire. Cognac and the more unusual Calvados and Armagnac. Rougié foie gras, dressings from a new premium French brand called a l’Olivier, the raspberry olive oil dressing is amazing. Menus are inspired by Michelin chefs – my chicken tagine with fresh coriander, mint and Menton lemon was simple, straightforward and hit the spot. Also, light and tasty on a long flight. It’s the first time I have been able to eat 3 courses on a flight without any indigestion.
At the Air France Business Lounge at CDG
Staying there
C2 (c2-hotel.com) a restored 19th century mansion of a wealthy Greek family living in Marseille. Ironically, Marseille was discovered by the Greeks in 600 BC. C2 is a great address and an impeccably designed hotel. It has been completely refurbished and restored using designer furniture from Frank Lloyd Wright and Corbusier. Service is impeccable and the breakfast, either in the salon or in the room, outstanding. The two rooms on the 4th (top floor) have superb views of Notre Dame de la Garde Basilica, a church which is the patron saint of the city, a Turkish hammam or steam rooms and a flat screen TV in the bathroom. My room on the ground floor has a painted 19th century ceiling, marble fireplace, a sumptuous ‘Mister Africa’ chair, footstool and a 4 poster bed with natural fibre creepers instead of drapes! C2 only has 20 rooms so it is small enough to feel like home but with all the facilities of an International hotel. It incidentally, also has the Best Spa in town with an indoor heated swimming pool.
Ceiling of my room at C2
A nice little alternative if you want to really absorb the vibe of Marseille from a very convenient address is to rent an apartment. My recommendation, La Plus Belle Vue De Marseille.
https://www.facebook.com/laplusbellevuedemarseille/
What to eat
- A little Marseille secret. The old fashioned Chez Fanny sandwicherie is where all the locals go. Charming hosts, Fanny and Charlotte, seduce their regular clientele with simple home made fare. Ingredients are all sourced from local producers, not supermarkets! While you wait, you get a whiff of the enticing aroma of cakes baking at the back. Eat there or take away but don’t miss Fanny’s “morning after” lemonade with ginger and vanilla. .
Chez Fanny
- Local cheeses at les Halles de la Major, a newly created fine food and gourmet market at J4, a redeveloped old dock area, now housing some of the best restaurants in the city. Provence produces mainly goat cheese. Try the local la brousse, a soft and creamy one. This is a one stop gourmet destination to shop, meet artisan producers, take a gourmet break in their cafe and tasting room. Opp the MuCem (leshallesdelamajor.com).
- La Poutargue, a Provence caviar made with dried eggs from mullet. Known as Bottarga in Italy.
- Soupions, tiny baby squid.
- For vegetarians, La Manne. Well prepared traditional food at very reasonable prices. Great vegetarian options. Grande Assiette veggie, spinach lasagna and plenty of fresh salads and cheese.
18 Boulevard de la Liberté, 13001 Marseille, France.:+33491087739 (www.lamanne.fr) Also very conveniently located right next to the main railway station on the main boulevard. - Of course you must try the symbol of the city, Bouillabaisse (pronounced boo-ya-bes). It’s a fish stew with tomatoes, fennel and saffron but the modern version served in most restaurants in Marseille today is a tame version with filleted fish and well strained soup. Bouillabaisse has its roots in simple Greek fish soups, brought there 2,500 years ago by the Phonecians and although it is on virtually every restaurant menu, please stay clear of cheap imitations which will contain frozen fish and leave you with an upset stomach probably. The traditional bouillabaisse contains quite an incredible selection of fresh fish like rascasse, congre, rouget, saint-pierre and vive. Fancy restaurants add shellfish, octopus and lobster. The well known traditional places to have it are Chez Fonfon, Chez Michel and the slightly old fashioned Le Miramar. Gerlad Passedat, Marseille’s 3 star Michelin gastronomic legend, serves a posh deconstructed version in his restaurant Le Petit Nice. I was recommended by another Michelin star chef Mathias Dandine from the subliminally chic restaurant Saint-Estève aux Lodges at Les Lodges Sainte Victoire in Aix, that the real McCoy is still made in a bubbling cauldron on a wood fire at Les Tamaris Chez Raymond at Saint Claire near Lavandou which is a couple of hours down the coast east from Marseille towards Saint Tropez.
Bouillabaisse
To do
- Lots of little coves with turquoise water you can see through to the bottom. Swim able beaches and plenty of activity on the water from March through to November.
Corniche
- Chateau d’If from count of Monte Christo. The prison does exist even if the Count didn’t.
Chateau D’If
- Explore some of the city’s museums, there are plenty. From the impressive modern MuCem which has lots of spaces for people to sit, wander and explore to the Museum of Fine Arts, Archeology, the beautiful Regards de Provence …21 in all!
Museum St.Jean
- Maison Empereur, quincaillerie. Simply the best, biggest and most exquisite kitchen and accessories shop I have ever been to in the world. Turn of the century styling which is very real. Like Marseille, this is no tourist trap. Locals actually come here regularly.
Maison Empereur
- Noilles – spice shops and an animated fruit and vegetable market, more Magreb than Mumbai in inspiration. The neighbourhood is North African, non threatening and testament to the fact that Marseilles is truly a ‘melting pot’.
- The fish market at Vieux Port. Not like the bustling, noisy places you encounter in other parts of the world. This is one very laid back market which starts life at 10.30 in the morning and a fantastic place to see the catch hauled up from small boats on the quay.
Fish Market at Vieux
Off track…
Cassis
A 30 minute drive from Marseille, Cassis (pronounced ‘cassy’ but has nothing to do with the fruit of the same name) is a picture postcard town with sandy beaches, a small port with both fishing vessels and sailboats and calanques (little sea inlets that looks like mini fiord, many of them have private beaches, clear blue water where you can swim or moor a boat or both). Cassis also has a daily morning market with seasonal, local vegetables and fruit, cheese, seafood and products like honey and lavender; some lovely restaurants and shops including a perfume one up one of the many little cobbled streets. Altogether charming and no wonder impressionist painters like Derain chose to capture this seaside mirage. The little cobble stoned lanes also lead to some impressive homes and estates. It’s a full of tourists in summer but at other times, it’s quite a dream! Boats from the port take visitors for a tour of the Calanques for 16 euro.
Morning Market at Cassis
Eat at Angelina. Don’t be fooled by the tiny, unassuming entrance which leads to a small modern restaurant with an enormous olive tree bang in the centre. There is also a small courtyard where you can eat when its good weather. Also, don’t be put off when you see just one chef in open the kitchen at lunch time, doing everything himself. He knows his stuff and is churning out Michelin quality food, believe me. Everything is fresh and absolutely delicious.The hake with an oyster emulsion and creamed leeks was to die for. Eat here like a king for under 50 Euros for 3 courses with a glass of exceptionally good local white wine. Children have their own special menu with dessert and a soft drink for 10 euros!
Hake with an oyster emulsion
There are 12 main vineyards in this tiny area . Lovely lovely fresh white Domaine du Paternal winery and vineyards. Worth visiting their cellar door for a tasting. Drink the blanc de blancs. It’s cheaper, has a lovely young fresh style with floral notes and a good acidity which goes with local fish and vegetables. The appellation of Cassis produces more whites than anything else. Provence is otherwise known for its rosé which goes exceedingly well with the warm climate, another reason to visit and it’s pretty warm from March through to the November. Even when you freeze in Paris in January, it is always warm in Cassis.
Aix en Provence
A pretty historic town with lots of vibe, students, 17th century fountains and the extraordinary Cours Mirabeau, a wide central avenue with banks and high end boutiques on one side and bars on the other. The quartier Mazarin bang in the centre, was constructed in the 17th century by Cardinal Mazarin’s brother. Mazarin virtually ruled France as Chief Minister in the reign of the very young young Louis XIV. Not surprising that the district is full of opulent mansions and great architectural beauty. A must visit there is the Hotel Caumont, an 18th century, refurbished stately home, museum and gardens. The tea experience in any one of their 4 impeccably restored salons makes you feel like Marie Antoinette.
The old part of the city is the centre of exquisite shopping for the region both big brands as well as boutiques with local specialties from Provence. Look out for Roi René- calissons, local marzipan sweets covered with icing in the shape of little leaves; Fromagerie du Passage, goat cheeses are the speciality of the region. Don’t miss two stunning local morning markets with lemony Madeleines and plump peaches. The painter Cezanne was born and grew up in Aix. There are reminders of that everywhere including the Mont Saint Victoire which my room at the Les Lodges Saint Victoire looks onto. I am bowled over by Michelin star chef Mathias Dandine at Saint-Estève aux Lodges at dinner. This is what France’s culinary reputation is based on, great produce and skillful cooking. Try the brilliant Pigeon stuffed with foie gras with a jus made from giblets and glistening oysters topped with caviar vodka cream and water of the oyster transformed into a light jelly. Everything is subliminally sexy and classic chic. Expensive no doubt but a good way to enjoy the experience at a reasonable price is a weekday lunch.
Market at Aix
Roi René- calissons
Le Saint Estve – Mathias Dandine
Forget the beaches and overpriced restaurants and hotels of the Cote d”Azur. Marseille and Provence offer you a REAL experience of the south of France at affordable prices.