Travelling abroad? Exploring with your taste buds? All very exciting till one day about a week into your holiday when you urge for something spicy, something emotional, something that reminds you of home…if you’re in London, you’re in luck. Aside the umpteen “curry houses” which offer mediocre but satisfying food, London now has some extraordinary good Indian food. Here’s a glimpse from local authentic dhaaba like eateries to Michelin wonders.
Kadiri’s in Willesden (020 81662911) opened nearly forty years ago near the Brent Cross Shopping Mall. It used to be almost what the British would call a ‘caff’, well an Indian version, a basic, functional sort of place, only known to local Indians and a few adventurous Brits. Today it is a smartish restaurant with table cloths and service. They remain adamant about no alcohol since they are quite conservative Muslims from a small community in Sankeshwar, on the West Coast of India. Kadiri’s serves probably one of the best biryanis in London today. Try their fish Biryani with authentic falooda and kebabs.
Karahi King ( 020 89042760). I was taken here by the Dishoom team when we were looking to replicate great flavours and I must say it is hard to beat their lamb seekh kebab. Made with roughly ground mince, rolled into large freshly made peshawari style naan, it is 100% North West frontier bliss. Ignore the plastic tables and chairs. You are not here to admire the furniture. The only agenda is food. They clearly do a brisk business in take away judging from the queues around the counter. The good thing about this level of eatery in London is that because of very strict health, safety and hygiene laws in the UK, they have been forced to smarten up their operations.
Dishoom
Dishoom (0207 4209320), ‘a Bombay Café in London’. I am clearly biased since I was part of the opening team but after 4 successful branches in Leicester Sq, Shoreditch, Kings Cross and the latest near Regents Street, it is undoubtedly a winner. I don’t have to say it. It is full of lovely little details like family photos from the 50’s and 60’s on the walls and the interiors have been inspired by Bombay’s Irani cafes with black and white tile flooring and fabulous period furniture. The menu is a mix of straightforward tasty food with feisty flavours…grills, biryani, wraps and a very mean raan burger and it also includes such quintessential ‘Bombay’ favourites such as keema pau, eggs Kejriwal and pau bhaji. Breakfast is terrific. Try egg and bacon naan with a mango and fennel lassi. They also serve really good masala chai. Do not miss their range of specially created cocktails – the house punch, chaijito, hot toddy and the stupendous café mary, a spicier version of the bloody mary. Prices are ludicrously reasonable for central London, about 20 pounds a head with a drink. Please reserve to avoid queues.
Cinnamon Club in Westminster (020 74361111). Popular with MPs since it is literally next door to the Houses of Parliament , the restaurant is situated in the old Westminster Library and has retained the book shelves and the wonderfully high ceilings. It is open from breakfast too but the ambience at dinner is very special, very elegant. It hasn’t changed since I first visited a decade ago, The Cinnamon Club’s ethos has been to revolutionise the way Indian cooking is viewed in the UK. Executive Chef and owner Vivek Singh oversees a brigade of chefs to deliver ‘modern Indian cuisine’. Dishes change every season and could include Kerala style lobster soup flamed with brandy; tandoori wild-caught Nile perch with carom seeds or chargrilled Welsh lamb fillet with nutmeg and sweetbread bhaji. The roast saddle of ‘Oisin’ red deer with pickling spices was memorable. The service here is very French. They even have a wine consultant, who advises on wine pairing with Indian food. Staff are impeccably trained.
Quilon, next to St James Crown Plaza hotel, not far from Buckingham Palace (020 78211899) is where the Indian High Commissioner dines. Chef Sriram has been there since its inception. He was the man behind the food at Karavalli in Bangalore many moons ago and brings to Quilon the same expert knowledge of South Indian coastal food with the added advantage of some very exotic ingredients available in Europe. If you are dying for (at a price of course) a mini dosa or a Mapla biryani, this is the place. The Allepy fish curry with raw mango is to die for …pure indulgence made with thick coconut cream which is removed from fresh coconuts every day. The pepper chicken and duck roast are traditional to the core. There doesn’t seem to be any compromise on ingredients or flavours at all. A good place to take vegetarians for an up market taste of home.
Chef Atul Kochar, Benares
Benares (020 76298886). Atul Kochar, owner chef has worked his way up to this very sophisticated Berkeley Sq address in the heart of Mayfair, near the Ritz. It is where the swish London set eat. You have grazing menus, sommelier tables, private dining rooms, a posh bar and water bodies…and of course superlative modern Indian cuisine. A tasting menu of several immaculately prepared courses with wines will set you back over 100 pounds but the experience is worth it. .
Its good to see that Indian food has come of age in London of all places and grown well beyond the “curry”. And if you’re on the run, you can always take refuge with Britain’s favourite sandwich, the CTM or chicken tikka masala which you can pick up from any British supermarket.