A few years ago, a group of top international chefs were asked that if they were on death row, what would their last dish on earth be? Most, unsurprisingly enough, listed dishes to do with their childhood, their mothers or just simple stuff. Ferran Adria, the world renowned chef from Spain, chose a dish of skillet fried green asparagus. So here’s why.

Asparagus is an odd looking vegetable with a sexy looking tip or spear (even the terminology is risqué) which is rather disappointing as you proceed further down. It can be stringy, with a strange bitter aftertaste or gloriously sweet and buttery. Choosing the right one for the right dish is essential. It is essentially a European vegetable so naturally you get all the best varieties there, with the variations which seasons produce. I was once in Vienna when it was white Asparagus season, around late April I think. The size of a single spear was…well…gross really. I had never seen anything like it. Excited, I rushed to a local bistro near the market and ordered a whole plateful. They were unfortunately boiled to death and served with a thick hollandaise sauce which didn’t do any justice to the vegetable at all.

Asparagus ideally should be first trimmed. The end of the stalk is often woody and you need to chop at the point where the stalk is tender. You can blanch them, which means that you plunge them into rapidly boiling, salted water for no more than a minute, remove and refresh at once in iced water or ice. You can also steam asparagus in a steel colander over boiling water with a lid, which is easier and better for the thin, green variety we find in India. You can also char grill the thin green ones, in an electric grill which looks like a sandwich maker or under a hot grill. I find the green variety goes better with a variety of recipes, both European and Asian.

So here is a recipe of mine, Green Asparagus with Pistachio Aillade, inspired by the garlicky sauces from the South of France and Spain and green asparagus, which is the only variety you can find regularly in India. It is both simple and stunning. If you drink wine, Green Asparagus goes well with a glass of chilled Sauvignon Blanc.

Grilled Asparagus with Pistachio Aïllade

Serves 4 (about ½ cup)
Ingredients
50gms (½ cup) shelled pistachios, slightly toasted (in a frying pan)
2 cloves garlic
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp chunky orange marmalade (Pune Farmers Mkt brand)
2 tbsp parsley
2 tbsp mint
1 tsp lime juice
Splash of brandy
500g trimmed asparagus (thin, green variety)
2 tbsp olive oil

Method
Coarsely chop the pistachios and garlic in a food processor or grinder. Add the parsley, mint, lime juice and lastly orange marmalade. You may need to add a few teaspoons of water to get the consistency of a thick sauce/dip. Add the extra virgin olive oil and lastly the brandy. Keep aside.

Arrange asparagus in a single layer. Drizzle the olive oil and place under a hot grill for 1-2 minutes. Keep turning until they are golden. Alternatively, heat a little olive oil in a frying pan and toss for a couple of minutes. Drop onto a plate and drizzle with the aïllade or serve in a bowl as a dip along side. The sauce can be made well in advance and lasts for a week or more in the fridge. It can also be used as a party dip or served with cold chicken.