Venice has for many years been a favourite wedding and honeymoon destination. Not surprising really. It is romantic and breezy and beautiful. Altogether stunning, especially if there are no tourists. If there are crowds, you simply hop onto a vaporetto, escape to one of the many magical islands and return to the mesmerising San Marco when they’ve gone back to their hotels or cruise ships. Hell, even George and Amal chose it for their wedding. Well heeled Indians both from the motherland and the UK and US have recently discovered it too. The city’s top hotels and palazzi are choc a bloc with Indian names for everything from intimate weddings to big Bollywood blockbusters. There are so many beautiful hotels converted from 15th century palaces and homes…you are spoilt for choice and Venice is open for business. The one hotel that seems to deliver consistent luxury and outstanding personal service (George’s favourite too) is the Cipriani. It is a unique destination on a tiny island called Giudecca across from San Marco or St Mark’s Square, with a larger than life, almost mythical reputation involving celebrities, stars, scandals, the rich and the famous. The reality of Cipriani hits you smack in the face as you are greeted by the very Italian, very charming, utterly flirtatious Roberto Senigallia, the concierge, as you climb off Cipriani’s private motor boat to the hotel. He tells me he doesn’t recognise me since I look younger than last time. Yawn, yawn …it works every time. (Anyone visiting Cipriani can avail of this 10 minute private ‘motoscaffo’ from the San Marco jetty. You don’t have to be staying there.) Roberto quickly whisks you off to the lobby or to wait in the restaurant over a coffee if there is an inordinate delay. He is empowered to “take care”. He’s been at the hotel forever. The ever effervescent Laura Di Bert, the PR manager who looks more like a film star herself than a hotel executive, may be around to greet you too.. It’s as if the whole team has a genuine urge to please.
This treatment isn’t just for me. I saw a replay of the entire scene on the next arrivals off the boat. It was only then that I realized what makes Cipriani not only one of the most famous, sought after destination hotels in the world but more importantly why it has an endless list of repeat ‘who’s who’ of guest lists year after year. Elizabeth Taylor, Tom Hanks, Angelina Jolie, Catherine Zeta Jones, Steven Spielberg, Robert de Niro, Nicole Kidman, Martin Scorsese, Dustin Hoffman, Sophia Loren.. and royalty… musicians – Miles Davis, Elton John, Paul McCartney…designers -Pierre Cardin, Emmanuel Ungaro, Kenzo, Donatella Versace, Giorgio Armani; and the man himself, George Clooney, not because he’s the most famous nor the best looking but simply because he has achieved immortality here by creating a cocktail (Buona Notte) the recipe of which is autographed, framed and served at the Bar Gabbiano at the hotel, every night. The other famous cocktail served here is the Bellini. Although served all over Venice, the original recipe using juice squeezed from fresh white peaches and prosecco is credited to Giuseppe Cipriani himself who created it in 1948 in Harry’s Bar in Venice, much praised even by Hemingway. The name comes from a Renaissance painter, Giovanni Bellini, known as Giambellino that at the time was being shown in the city.
There seems to be no boundaries to Cipriani’s endless acquisition of neighbouring old palazzi and palazettos, all adding to the charm and grandeur of the property. A few doors down however is Elton John’s house. I doubt if they will be able to touch that but you never know! Most rooms at Cipriani overlook the water. It has the largest swimming pool in Venice, a picture perfect vegetable garden and lush lawns aptly named “Casanova Gardens”. Apparantly Casanova did get up to his amorous tricks in or near this spot in an area known as the ‘Casanova orchards’. It was here that the legendary lover held clandestine trysts with daughters from rich Venetian families who were sent to this island to keep them away from any temptations in Venice! Giudecca until quite recently was still considered a place to vacation rather than live although it is so close to the main island. This perhaps accounts for the more resort look and feel of the hotel. It’s a modest hotel in terms of rooms – 40 doubles plus 21 suites and 30 junior suites. It is the fabulous Dogaressa suite on the first floor of the Palazzo Vendramin, formerly the home of a 15th century Venetian noble family, which takes your breath away. It has a timeless, romantic view of the Canaletto overlooking St Mark’s and is completely restored with period furniture, upholstery and local Fortuny lamps. All suites at the Cipriani come complete with their own butlers.
The food at Cipriani is another reason people stay here. Understated elegance, like the hotel itself . The old Executive Chef Renato Piccolotto, a man of shy disposition and huge talent, has left but he leaves a huge legacy in the very capable hands of Michelin starred Davide Bisetti who has recently opened Oro the elegant indoor and outdoor signature restaurant. This is by far the most outstanding fine dining experience in Venice today. The Mister Pommodoro, tomatoes in several ways on one plate with the most exquisite tomato water Bloody Mary, the local sea bass, Branzino, cooked in olive oil @50 C so it is sort of poached and steamed are two dishes to die for. A nice surprise are the Cipriani signature dishes at the back of the menu. These are dishes created when Giuseppe ruled the roost; carpaccio, tagliolini gratin, risotto primavera and pastas agile, a thick winter soup of pasta and borlotti beans.
Walter Bolzonella, the perfect bar man at the Cipriani recreates a perfect Bellini…mind you, only during summer months since he doesn’t believe in using frozen white peach puree as others in Venice have succumbed to. And I must say, from Cip’s Club, the Cipriani resturant on the ground floor of the palazzetto, on the edge of the water, a perfect Bellini, chilled and blushing pink, is pretty much the most perfect aperitivo money can buy.
CIPRIANI’S BELLINI
Ingredients for 1 Bellini
1 fresh white peach
2 glasses water mixed with 1/2 cup lemon juice
1 tsp castor sugar
2 or 3 fresh raspberries
2/3 glass of Prosecco
Peel and slice 1 white peach. Cover with lemon water for 10 mins. Remove from the liquid and put in a blender with crushed ice and castor sugar. You can add a teaspoon of cherry or cranberry juice or a few raspberries for a distinctly pink colour. Pour into a chilled champagne flute and top with chilled Prosecco.