Florence – a bit of a nightmare really and here was villa San Michele. We chose to do a 3 day Florence trip in October thinking we were going to beat the maddening crowds, culture vultures and people with children since schools had pretty much opened. Firstly, it was unpredictably hot. Not the fault of the Florentines. And the queues everywhere and the number of tourists smashed into a few square kilometres was nothing short of hideous. Even after booking the Uffizi and the Accademia, primarily to see David (well worth it), we still had a hot 30 minute wait at each place. If you do miss David, there is a weatherproof replica on the Piazza della Signoria on the way to the Uffizi. Be warned, All museums are closed on Monday so Tuesday’s tend to be crowded. We didn’t know this. Now, you do. Plan accordingly. the Duomo? Didn’t even attempt that but it is stunning from the outside. My advice? After you’ve done the predictable tourist things, do all or some of the following and staying in Fiesole up in the hills looking down on Florence, was the best decision we made.
1.Procacci – a little breath of Florentine fresh air in the heart of the city near the Piazza della republica serving little rolls stuffed with the most divine truffle cream. 6 high tables and cushioned chairs, polite staff who speak English but there is no whiff of anything touristy here. This is strictly for locals. Smart service and food. Well worth it.
2. Cantinetta Antinori – owned by the famous wine family and label in Tuscany. They serve lovely Tuscan wines and great crostini with baby livers in a salsa verde to die for. Cosy and comfortable despite being on the upmarket and central via de’ Tornabuoni
3. Central Market – known locally as Mercato San Lorenzo since the San Lorenzo church is next door. Surrounded by tourist stalls selling leather bags of dubious origin. Don’t let this put you off. Inside and on the ground floor is a working daily market for locals; meats, cheese, fruit and veg rub shoulders with stalls selling spices and dried porcini mushrooms. On the first floor is a marvellous collection of restaurant spaces selling everything from white truffle
specialities to wood fired pizza, pasta made in front of you, an Eataly gourmet store and other more serious eateries where you buy your T bone steak or seafood by the kilo and have it cooked for you. Bars galore and most vendors speak English. You’ll see mostly tourists, travellers and young Italians not many locals but who cares. The food is reasonable and affordable, you have clean loos and free wifi available. Open all day long.
4. Nerbone is an institution on the ground floor at the back of the central market. They are known for their lampredotto (tripe) which they serve with salsa verde and chilli sauce either in a crusty bun or cooked with onions and served with bread on the side. They also have a couple of salads, pasta with pesto and beef slices. That’s it. It’s cheap, cheerful and very very local. There are even tables and communal seating and since the turnover is super fast, you’ll always find a place to sit. Closes as does the ground floor of the market, at 2 pm sharp.
5. Eating Well in Florence? We hear that there are some really good little places to eat and although didn’t have time to visit were strongly recommended Bistro Gilda for their local recipes and reasonable prices, Sostanza for their bistecca and other Florentine grilled specialities. It’s a tiny hole in the wall and there is no reservation; Hotel Torre Guelfa for a refreshing rose spritz on their terrace overlooking the river and Ponte Vecchio and Cocco Lezzone for
hearty Tuscan home cooking.
Where to stay
Villa San Michele is the ultimate in luxury and service in the hills of Fiesole about 20 mins by car from bustling downtown Firenze. They have a handy air conditioned shuttle bus to and from central Florence every hour. The architecture and approach is stunning and fits in the theme of ‘Country Renaissance’. It was a 15th century monastery and they have kept what is essential (cloisters, chapel, nooks and corners, stone walls), renovated where necessary. The facade was said to be designed by Michelangelo (yes the same one) and finished by a well known 15th century local architect. We stayed in the relatively newer rooms on the hillside….a nice walk up and down and with the added advantage of your own private terrace and a beautiful bathroom in Local Florentine pristine white marble. It is every bit the scene of Tuscany I was expecting – the whiff of wild Rosemary and lavender as you meander through the terrace gardens, poplars and cypresses framing the picture perfect countryside and stone paths leading to the village of Fiesole. The terrace of the la Loggia restaurant is the most popular place to hang out and have a drink or dinner overlooking the Arno valley and the entire city of Florence. Double breasted jacketed waiters ply up and down trying to give the best possible service to all the well heeled guests. It’s a bit of magic, sitting eating your perfectly cooked Bistecca alla Fiorentina. It’s a really simple dish – a big fat T bone or porterhouse sourced from the Chianina breed of cattle. It is grilled over wood or charcoal and flavoured with salt and pepper, basted with olive oil and fresh rosemary, cut into thick slices in front of you and served with some equally thick cut grilled vegetables and white beans. Nothing fancy at all. Just a really good, juicy piece of meat cooked for two hungry people. This new cut of beef was reportedly introduced to this area by affluent British travellers in the early 18th century. Steaks were not and still aren’t part of the Italian culinary repertoire. Another treat at the Villa San Michele is a private cooking class overlooking the herb garden with Executive chef Attilio di Fabrizio. Even the husband got his hands dirty. We made Riga gnocchi, little potato dumplings which you create by sliding them off a board with ridges. This way the sauce, we were told, clings onto the grooves made by the board. The whole process has to be done by hand. We also made a simple sauce with baby tomatoes tomato, garlic and fresh basil. Tuscan food is rustic and simple because the produce is perfect. If your ingredients aren’t 100% fresh, the dish just won’t be the same.
Villa San Michele is A very special place. Understated old world charm with a breathtaking view!