Feasting in France is memorable wherever you go; quaint countryside, chic cities or areas famous for great wines or a particular cheese. So, when I recently went on a quick 5 day spin with a view to looking at gourmet food products coming into India, I was both excited and aghast at the vast itinerary and at the impending pounds I was bound to put on. However, travelling in France with convenient air connections, great roads and the fabulously fast, super comfortable TGV trains, made the whole trip , even during the December cold, quite painless and I emerged no heavier (thankfully) except for luggage laden with consumable goodies. It is important to remember that in France “eating well” doesn’t necessarily mean “eating lots”. The expression “bien manger” refers to quality and satisfaction not volume. And I certainly did justice to that expression – from tastings of Valrhona chocolate and Paul Jaboulet wines to spectacular lunches and dinners.
This was a fantastic journey, starting at the famous Le Cordon Bleu cookery school in Paris and ending up with a world wind tour of Paris on a cold winter night with a well deserved glass of Armagnac (to my mind, so much more special than Cognac) at the lovely Hotel Beaumarchais in the Marais .
Le Cordon Bleu
Chef Patrick Terrien at Le Codron Bleu
Foie Gras
Frothy Caramel with Coffee
Apart from being probably the most famous and oldest Cookery School in the world for serious chefs in the making, you can, as a visitor, enroll for daily classes, which is quite an eye opener. The school is still considered the best for classical French cuisine including basic cooking skills and techniques. It is also the perfect place to understand how to work with and taste famous French produce like foie gras (goose or duck liver), truffles, meats, vegetables, herbs and cheeses. The day I visited, we went through recipes including foie gras (fresh goose liver) in a creamy broth placed on a dish of white haricot beans; fillet of beef in a cep (porcini) mushroom crust with a red wine sauce; and a frothy caramel made with sea salt from guerande placed over a coffee and cognac cream. We also had time to pop into an ever popular dessert making session where the famous French cake, Mogador, a vision of chocolate sponge and chocolate mousse, was being produced.
Chef Mathieu Garel
A quick lunch at the charming corner Bistrot, Le Belisaire, proved well worthwhile. I discovered a reasonably priced, superb little champagne called Ayala, now taken over by Bollinger. The place seats about 25 people and looks straight out of a French movie. Mathieu Garel, the chef owner, is passionate about what he offers – solid French cooking, both traditional and with some international flavours like ‘tagine” style vegetables. I especially liked the idea of his beef filet served with a huge bone with marrow inside,something I hadn’t seen for many years and am happy to see still served in Paris.
That evening we dined at La Victoire Supreme du Coeur, situated in the heart of one of my favourite parts of the city, the Marais, an area full of quant shops and now designer boutiques, art galleries and a wealth of history. The restaurant was cool, hip and trendy serving healthy vegetarian cuisine. I had asked my hosts specifically to book something vegetarian so that I could get an idea of how the French are coping with this phenomenon nowadays but it didn’t dawn on me at the time that in France, as in most of the world except India, “vegetarian” is synonymous with health or ex hippes, not religion. It is not the kind of place most Indian vegetarians I know would be happy with. They would rather have a French onion soup and a gratin in a local café or bistro. But for people looking for a creative, lighter, healthier option while travelling, this is perfect. I found the soups outstanding and believe that the ‘chic burger’, a seitan burger made from soya, was very good.
The next morning we took the TGV to Valence in south east France. Not usually on the “gourmand” map, this is actually the home to many fine French things. Anne Sophie Pic, the only woman in France to have 3 Michelin stars is here as is the home of some of the finest chocolate in the world, Valrhona and the vineyards of Paul Jaboulet, the producer of some of the best wines from the Northern Rhone.
Lyon is the nearest city in the area and we stayed at the most unusual boutique hotel, La Cour des Loges which is an experiment fusing contemporary comfort in a 16th century building. It is also in the heart of old Lyon, a beautiful city and and the capital of French gastronomy. The famous products to taste and buy here are their air dried salami (rosette), poultry from the town of Bresse and regional cheeses like the blue from Bresse, tomme from Savoie, reblochon, saint marcellin and creamy Vacherin. Lyon is also known for tradition so be prepared for French classical cooking where chefs are not shy of using obsene amounts of cream, butter and foie gras! A good way to try Lyon specialities would be at the main market named after the famous French chef who comes from Lyon, Paul Bocuse.If you are buying (or even if you aren’t), vendors are quite happy to let you have a taste of their produce. There are also a couple of small restaurants in the market itself serving local produce and wines.
A few steps from La Cour des Loges along the narrow cobbled street is the most amazing wine shop I have seen. Georges Five (named after the owner) has a wine shop with wines from around the world – rare in France where wine stores usually stock French wines and in many cases, only from the region too. A few doors down, he presides over his tasting room and wine bar which specializes in French and Spanish wine and cold cuts. A maverick in jeans, he is quite capable of opening 30 bottles of the one of the most expensive wines in the world, La Chapelle, as is he is opening a 1978 Saint Julien from Chateau Talbot, for us. Georges is extremely knowledgeable about wines, speaks perfect English and will guide you as to what to buy and at what price. Wines to buy from this area are the whites from the Marsanne grape which
produces a lovely dry white wine which goes well with seafood. Good reds at correct prices from this area are the Paul Jaboulet Crozes Thalabert and Saint Joseph from Chapoutier and Paul Jaboulet.
From the Rhone Alps region, filled with picture postcard Christmas trees and knee deep snow, we moved to Nantes on the west coast of the country. We stayed at the Abbaye de Villeneuve, an early 13th century abbey that has been totally restored and is now a “hotel particulier” which basically means a private mansion. It is part of a group called Savry who specialize in restoration and running of small chateaux and exclusive mansions, where you feel more like a personal guest of the family than a hotel client. This is what the French do best and it is worth considering as an option to your run of the mill, nameless, faceless hotel chains. The next morning we visited Guérande where the most famous sea salt in France is produced. Sel de Guérande is an international gourmet staple and renowned chefs can’t seem to do without its ‘extra virgin’ equivalent, fleur de sel ( flower of the salt), the top most layer of salt from the salt flats, hand harvested and with a peculiar tangy, almost effervescent fresh flavor. It is sparkling white, unlike the slightly grayish sea salt from this area, even without cleaning. The shop alongside the marshes which belongs to the Guérande salt cooperative, is filled with all sorts of surprising things – not surprisingly sacks of salt in all sizes, wonderful combinations of sea salt and herbs, salt grinders which work and where the salt doesn’t stick, aprons, baskets and so on. Surprisingly affordable, the salt mixes have become an indispensable part of my kitchen.
Lastly, we visited what looked like an ordinary family restaurant in the area, La Mare aux Oiseaux (bird’s pond), named after the nearby lakes and marshes. It was Christmas season and so the young chef, Eric Guérin decided to decorate the place with his collection of bears in all sizes, mostly teddies, in various forms and colours. I found this more bizarre than festive but all personal opinions were put aside when the food appeared. Using local and international ingredients, eclectic presentation with oriental touches and a mix of styles and techniques, this was undoubtedly “the meal” of the trip. Everybody on the table raved about all the dishes, without exception. Mine – the filet of local pike perch with winter root vegetables in a broth flavoured with kumquats, bay leaves and juniper berries; the pigeon, duck foie gras and white beans cooked in white miso paste and to finish, the completely perfect lemon tart with a kalamansi lime ice cream, all blew me away, without exception. Almost 25 years of food reviewing makes the patience short and the pen, unforgiving. This experience renewed my faith in restaurant cooking. This was Michelin star food with no strings attached – no fancy prices nor pompous surroundings. La Mare des Oiseaux was certainly a fitting end to a perfectly fulfilling week of culinary bliss.
Boxes
Salt from Guerande
Sel de Guérande – The word Guérande comes from the word in Breton (from Brittany) Gwen Ran, meaning “white country”. There have been salt farmers at work in this flood-prone area of the Loire-Atlantic coast for nearly 2,000 years. Salt production peaked in the 16th century but has since then had to fend off increasing competition from rival outfits on the Mediterranean. Property developers nearly put an end to it altogether in the 1960s-70s. Placed under national protection in 1996, the salt marshes today extend over 2,000 hectares at the foot of the medieval city of Guérande. To complete with the wider salt industry, the paludiers (salt farmers) joined forces to restore traditional methods of salt production. Now part of a farmers’ cooperative, they operate within an economic framework built on formal training, storage management policies and a commitment to quality that in 1991 won them Label Rouge approval, a national quality seal. Guérande salt also has a low sodium-magnesium ratio. It is an organic product which is neither washed nor refined and with no additives, making it a genuine health food.
Valrhona Chocolate – Since it was created in 1924 by a pastry chef from the Rhône Valley, Valrhona has become synonymous with exceptional quality, natural aromas of various cocoa origins and traditional methods. This chocolate is particularly praised and recognized by professionals and gourmets. With their school, the Ecole du Grand Chocolat, Valrhona continuously spreads their message and recipes worldwide and hence their brand too.Valrhona is also the first company to create chocolate “Grands Crus” by following the same research methods as those used for wines. Their stunning little shop in the town of Valence is definitely worth a visit. A must pick up are the almonds coated with gianduja (dark hazelnut chocolate) and dusted with fine cocoa powder.
Truffles – When you say the word “truffle”, I am always confused about whether the person is referring to that black, ugly, sexy smelling tuber or a chocolate. The chocolate actually took its name from the tuber because it had the same shape and colour and was a far later invention than the tuber. Truffles, like caviar and other exorbitantly priced delicacies, has a huge fan following and an equal amount of people who can’t seem to see what all the fuss is all about. The original truffle is the underground fungus of a tuber, prized by gastronomes of several millennia for its ineffable perfume and its supposed aphrodisiac qualities. Until the 19th century truffles seem to have been relatively abundant, but these days demand far outstrips supply . In France, you will most likely find the Perigord truffle, which is used mainly to flavour things like eggs or steak or sliced thinly as a topping. I love both the flavour and the wonderful heady, leathery aroma of black truffle. It’s a habit worth forming.
Monin – I have been using Monin syrups for several years now. The company is family owned, over 100 years old and has recently seen an expansion worldwide, especially in the areas of syrups for bars and coffee chains. The hazelnut, amaretto etc in your local coffee bar is probably a Monin syrup. They are natural syrups using extracts not artificial essence and actually taste like they are meant to. I especially like the flavours they have developed for the East like Green tea, Coconut, Rose and Jasmine. However their Green Apple and Watermelon syrups are most in demand. What most people don’t know is that they also produce a range of liqueurs from which you make the French aperitif, Kir, which is a mix of white wine or champagne and a fruit liqueur. The depth of the drink comes from the intensity of the syrup or liqueur. You will usually find Kirs with blackcurrant or raspberry. The Italians make their famous ‘bellini’ in much the same way but which fresh white peach juice( theoretically, crushed by hand). Monin makes a liqueur de pêche from white peaches (pêches de vigne) which makes a superlative Kir/Bellini…call it what you will, you can’t stop drinking it.
Foie gras- Most people will have tasted paté de foie gras, which is a paste made from the goose or duck liver and often flavoured with truffles, eaten on little toasts on served on top of steak (Tournedos Rossini). The real McCoy is the entire liver, pan fried , leaving the middle a little underdone. This is often served with green peppercorns or flambéd with a little Cognac, served with prunes, used to stuff quail or used in a roulade. Foie Gras anywhere on a menu usually denotes high price, luxury and decadence. The product that originates in France and its usage in recipes is distinctly part of the French fine dining experience. The bad publicity around how this liver is produced accounts as much for its notoriety. It was popular in the ancient world. The Roman gastronome Apicius discovered that that you could increase the size of goose livers, using the same method he had done earlier for pigs livers, by force feeding the animal with dried figs. When the animals were fat enough, they were drenched with wine mixed with honey, and then immediately killed for consumption. In the Landes, in Alsace to the East of France and more particularly around Périgord in the south west, the unwilling goose or duck’s assimilation of fistfuls of maize is translated into the melting, unctuous delicacy that, along with caviar, has become synonymous with sybaritic eating.
Paul Jaboulet Ainé wines – What I love most about Paul Jaboulet wines is their diversity, both in the styles of wine and their prices. From an inexpensive and very approachable white wine, Parallèle 45 (made from 5 white grapes which are vinified separately) to a very decent red Crozes Thalabert to the world renowned Hermitage La Chapelle, which the Wine Spectator ranks along with Romanée Conti and Pétrus, as the three most expensive and sought after wines in the world. Recently, a case of 12 bottles of 1961 La Chapelle sold at Sotheby’s in London for 176,500 Euros! It has also been classed as one of the “12 mythical wines of the 20th century”The wine has rich history surrounding a knight who in the 13th century returned from the crusades and was given permission to live in the hills. He was a recluse, became a hermit and built a chapel overlooking the Rhone valley, hence the name of the wine. Their astounding beautiful wine cellar is at Chateauneuf Sur Isère.