Mapusa market (pronounced ‘mapsa’) in North Goa. I have been coming here for longer than I care to remember and most of the local vendors remain unchanged. Neither have they aged it seems. Is it the food, the lifestyle or the feni, I wonder? Spices are a great buy here; wonderful aromatic, punchy black pepper, rolled cinnamon and highly flavourful cardamom, sea salt, kokum, unpolished rice, homemade pickles and black palm jaggery. Goan bread, usually home-delivered on a bicycle, with the quick sound of a tolling bell at the crack of dawn, is part of every Goan household’s morning ritual. Crusty wholemeal poiee with bran (similar to healthy pita bread), cathro (a bow-shaped white bun) and crusty ondu rolls are sold all day long by local bakers in the small central, covered area of the market.
Explore Panjim. The old streets of Fontainhas, up the hill to the swanky Altinho residential area, stroll along Dayanand Bandodkar Marg along the river from Panjim to Miramar beach past the Campal grounds and admire the beautiful Portuguese bungalows and the renovated and restored architecture, now mostly Government buildings
Try feni, either neat with ice and lime or in its more manageable state in a cocktail. It’s the local hooch brewed from the cashew fruit or sap from coconut palm flowers. Urak, the first distillation, is quite spectacular, drunk young and fresh. The Vaz family who own Madame Rosa distillery, are pioneers and have managed to gain a geographical indication (GI) for feni in Goa, turning it from moonshine to a highly respectable liquor. Interestingly, the Portuguese brought cashew trees to Goa from Brazil and planted them on hillsides to prevent erosion along the river banks. The cashew nut, which dangles on the outside of the fruit, serves as a cash crop and the fragrant nectar of the fruit is distilled.
Pop into Freedom Tree, a new lifestyle store on the Chogm Raod with a fabulous new Bengali and French restaurant called Mustards
Have to try Bebinca, a layered Goan pudding. Made from coconut milk, sugar, egg yolks and flour, interspersed with clarified butter. The more layers it has, the more accomplished the desert maker is considered.
Take your pick of some of the best restaurants in the country – Modern Goan with flair at A Reverie in Candolim, Burmese at Bomra’s in Candolim, French classic at La Plage in Morjim, city bar and restaurant, Black Sheep Bistro in Panjim.
Nothing beats sunset in Vagator sitting at Thalassa with a cocktail in your hand. Mariketty, the buxom blond owner chef is the epitomy of generosity and all things Greek. Sunset and moonlit nights here an experience worth repeating over and over again.
Where to stay? At the top end of the luxury market with the comfort of 24-hour electricity and all other amenities, the Park Hyatt and Grand Hyatt are both fabulous properties with beautiful beaches, a good variety of restaurants and great service. I personally love the Casa Boutique Hotels; Casa Colvale on the backwaters, Britona, Vagator and Baga…all outstanding with attention to detail and personalised service. For something very designer and very discreet, Jivi Sethi’s house Sunbeam in Assagaon is sheer bliss (justjivi.com). And for families, Rainforest properties have some delightful villas and apartments
For something completely unexpected, a British family in Goa make the most divine English style sausages, bacon and burgers. British Bangers is the name and it is certainly worth bringing along a chill box to Goa just to take these back home
Looking for local Goan flavours? Goan Catholic restaurants will serve pork and beef in addition to a plethora of seafood. Goan Hindu eateries, mainly ‘thali’ joints, will not serve pork or beef but will serve chicken, seafood and plenty of vegetables. Bhatti Village in Nerul, Florentines in Saligao are my favourites for Goan Catholic. I have been going to Florentine’s for as long as I can remember but the menu is limited to a fabulous chicken cafrael, rawa fried prawns and a superb reichade pomfret…not to mention a very good prawn curry and rice. Bhatti Village do an excellent vindalho, sorpotel, beef in green masala and coconut clams. For Goan Hindu, try the thali restaurant Woods Inn in Porvorim, Sharda’s in Bambolim and Anant Ashram in Vasco..
(pronounced ‘mapsa’) in North Goa. I have been coming here for longer than I care to remember and most of the local vendors remain unchanged. Neither have they aged it seems. Is it the food, the lifestyle or the feni, I wonder? Spices are a great buy here; wonderful aromatic, punchy black pepper, rolled cinnamon and highly flavourful cardamom, sea salt, kokum, unpolished rice, homemade pickles and black palm jaggery. Goan bread, usually home-delivered on a bicycle, with the quick sound of a tolling bell